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Newbie Guide
Tips / Trick ''': Early on, your main source of experience will be daily Arena battles. Only after much time passes will you be able to pick up enough pupils to gain sufficient pupil xp to replace direct battling (discussed further below). Pick your opponents wisely if you want to earn the 2xp per victory rather than only 1xp for a loss. I know the arena's match-making system only lets you see the enemy Brutes' HP and stats, but that's fine. Opponents with high HP aren't that big of a deal as long as you can out-damage them. High stats are more dangerous. Choose an opponent with even stats rather than an opponent with a single high stat, that way they won't strike too hard (strength), strike too often (speed), or evade too often (agility). Beware brutes that have both low HP and low stats - that means they've been collecting weapons, specialties and pets. You can also manually check enemy Brutes' personal collection of weapons, specialties, and pets by opening a new tab and typing in this address: http://yourbrutename.mybrute.com/cellule where the brute's name goes into the name area. Periods (. ), commas(, ), colons(: ), semi-colons(; ), spaces and the like MUST be replaced with a dash (-). Only shift-key symbols, which include number shifts like: " !@#$%^&* ", are removed entirely from the name when writing the url into your browser. Multiple "replaced" symbols stringed together are worth only one dash (K. Sasaki which has a period followed by a space is k-sasaki). Weapons to Avoid Brutes with bladed staffs such as the Lance, Trident, and Halberd (high rate of counter-attack/block), the Bumps (the wooden club, high damage) or Stone Hammer (high damage), Greatsword (generally dangerous), Sai (high speed, chance to disarm), Shuriken (high speed, counter-attack), Flail (high damage, often multiple attacks) and Whip (high speed, counter-attack) are to be avoided. These weapons all pose serious threats to the average low-level Brute and can almost instantly result in a shut-out match. Only well-levelled Brutes and experienced players, who have both the arsenal and knowledge of whether or not their arsenal is sufficient, should risk these dangers. Occasionally, inexperienced players must risk these dangers openly (generally, at random via the tournament system) to gain useful knowledge of how their individual Brutes will perform against them. If you happen to have any of the weapons mentioned above at an early level, this can be a real asset. When you find an enemy Brute with these weapons be sure to check their Arena and tournament replays, both victories and defeats, to see how their arsenal performs in combat against various conditions. Specialities to Avoid Brutes with Untouchable speciality (raises evasion), Extra-thick Skin speciality (damage% reduction), Thief super (steals your held weapon), Impact speciality (disarm you on strike), Sabotage speciality (disarm on strike or discard weapons in reserve) are to be avoided. Even experienced players have difficulty challenging Brutes with these rare and powerful abilities. Be sure to check available replays and watch how they perform, taking note of what conditions that these specialities are best for and what they are weak against. Brutes at higher levels will surely have these kinds of skills and you'll have to know of what kind of match-ups your individual Brute is equipped to win if you want to continue participating in the Arena. Brutes with Shield speciality (improved blocking), Armour speciality (slight damage reduction), Fierce Brute super (double damage), Pugnacious speciality (may strike after being hit, does not interrupt attacking Brute), Tragic Potion super (recover HP), and Tornado of Blows speciality (raises chance to multi-strike) should be treated with caution. Sometimes these specialties do not change the battle, but sometimes they do. You must experiment more often against these kinds of skills than those named on the "TO AVOID" list, since they are much more common but not quite as dangerous. Pet Woes All Brutes who own pets should be avoided by inexperienced players. They are a significant variable, and usually become the deciding factor in a match. With their own HP, they often become meat shields for their owner. However, pet owners have lower-than-average HP which tends to balance this out. It's been said that they can even gain specialities when the owner levels up, although I have no way to verify this rumour. Watch replays of pet owners to see just how effective each type of pet truly is. "Dog", the most common pet, is the weakest. It only has 14HP, attacks with the strength of a Knife, and performs anywhere between 1 to 3 attacks per turn (usually on the low end). Alone, the dog is a nuisance. Alongside an armed Brute, they are lethal. Dogs are also the only kind of pet that a pet owner can have multiple of, although this is rare. Two dogs are dangerous, but three dogs - the maximum limit - are a real pain to deal with. Dogs can also be owned along with the wolf and bear pets. "Panther" (pictured as a grey wolf, but it's in-game name is panther) is much more rare, possibly being only awarded to Brutes at 1/50th the rate which dogs are. The wolf has approximately 25-40HP, strikes with the power of a Broadsword, and attacks 2-5 times per turn. They are the fastest and most agile pet, usually taking several turns in a row and striking multiple times per turn. While they have a fraction of the strength of a Bear their total offensive potential is much higher. A wolf can solo a low-level Brute and two dogs. They remain dangerous well into medium levels and should be avoided. "Bear" is a classic giant grizzly, the rarest and strongest of all pets. With more than 100HP they can take significant punishment, and strike with the power of a Hatchet or Iron Mace, although they are much slower than both the dog and wolf so they usually only strike once per turn. The damage-per-turn output is noticeably less than the wolf, so they're not truly as dangerous as the wolf, but in a prolonged battle (more than 6 turns) between moderately leveled Brutes a wolf may end up being defeated early while the Bear endures. There are several counters to pets. The best solution, the very rare Hypnosis super, will convert the opponent's pets to the user's side for the rest of the battle. This completely reverses the situation, and puts the original pet owner at the most severe disadvantage possible. Next, Cry of the Damned super will cause some or all enemy pets to flee the battle immediately. If used early enough, it will negate the benefits that pet owners enjoy, crippling them since pet owners sometimes become over-reliant on the presence of their pets. Lacking either of those, the Net super is something of an ace-in-the-hole: it will always be thrown randomly at one of an enemy's pets, and then the Net specialist will ignore the pet for the rest of the battle effectively removing it from play. The only drawback is if there are multiple pets and the Net catches a dog instead of the wolf or bear. The last option is the Bomb super, a thrown explosive that deals moderate damage to all targets on the opposing side of the field. This is only lethal to dogs, and should be considered effective as a means of dealing with multiple dogs, but it can also deal critical damage to wolves as well. The Bomb is not very effective against Bears. Study these situations. Misc. If your Brute depends on the Impact speciality (disarm on strike) or Sai weapon (high speed, disarm on strike), then avoid challenging Brutes that have Master of Arms speciality (often draws/switches weapon) combined with a collection of four or more weapons. Brutes with Master of Arms generally draw a weapon every turn and it will negate any disadvantage that frequently disarming the Brute would cause them. After four turns the battle will likely already be decided, and disarming the opponent will have had almost no real effect up to that point. Brutes with Martial Arts should also be avoided if you rely on disarming as they can do as much damage with their fists as with a weapon. Multiple Characters and Pupil Experience Tips / Trick ''': You may create as many characters as you want, with no rules regarding the use of them. Because of the large role that random luck plays, creating an army of Brutes is almost necessary to get a good Brute that is worth keeping. Good luck with yours! Once you finally have a good Brute, you must advertise it to other players or on Internet forums by providing this kind of link: yourbrutename.mybrute.com where the name of your Brute is written in the "name" portion of the link. All characters created through a link to your Brute become "pupils" of your "master" Brute. For every new pupil gained, the master Brute gains 1xp. Every time a pupil gains a level, the master Brute gains another 1xp. Since you can only battle three times a day, it will take you months to get to level 10 without a large number of pupils. With that in mind, it may sound like a good idea for you to create an infinite number of pupils for your own master Brute. However, this is a waste of time so don't bother. MyBrute uses IP tracking software, and links your IP address to all Brutes that you use. Only the first pupil that you create for your own master Brute will award the master with bonus experience while all additional pupils will give no bonus experience. Only the first pupil owned by other players will award your mater with bonus experience as well, and all additional pupils from the same IP address will give no extra experience. These rules disable experience farming, forcing players to use non-abusive methods to gain experience. So, simply make Brutes for your own personal use (and maybe one - and only one - pupil for each of your friend's masters!). If you want to climb the ranks then get yourself a worthy character and advertise, advertise, advertise. Tournaments MyBrute frequently holds automated tournaments. The window for registration is often very brief (perhaps a few hours). The tournaments themselves are comprised of match-ups of every registered participant in a series of single elimination matches (one round per match, failure will remove your Brute from the tournament). You can still participate in regular Arena battles while registered for a tournament, so do not hesitate to join a tournament when the opportunity presents itself! The early preliminary rounds tend to pair up Brutes of similar levels, but there is still some degree of randomization. Your Brute is more likely to be matched with a peer leveled Brute than one who is twenty levels above or below their own, but as the pool of available participants shrinks with each round of eliminations the chance of running into an uneven match will increase. Eventually, the tournament will come to a head in the quarter-finals (four 1-on-1 matches), the victors moving on to the semi-finals (two 1-on-1 matches), and lastly the final match with the pair of competitors who have beaten all of their opponents battling for first place and presumably a grand prize. There does not appear to be any consolidation match between the semi-final losers to have either of them ranked in 3rd place. Assuming that you do not win, by watching the replay of your Brute's losing match you're provided with a link to the cell page of the Brute who defeated you. From there, you can watch all of their matches in the associated tournament, and follow their progress. Should they fail, you can watch their losing match and start following the Brute who beat them, and so on until you come to the top two competitors. Your Brute's cell will also be provided with direct links to all quarter-final, semi-final, and final match replays of the tournament that he/she participated in. Tournament replays do not last for very long and are purged from the database very quickly, however. It is virtually impossible for a newbie to win a tournament, and there are no prizes for the losers. However, it is a valuable chance to have your Brute matched up against many Brutes in a single day (in addition to the standard 3 Arena battles). Fighting Brutes who are on a different experience level than your own is a strong indication of the quality of your Brute: defeating a higher level Brute may mean you have a good character, but being defeated by a lower leveled Brute may mean that the character is poor. Why did your Brute win a match, or why did your Brute lose? Use these tournaments to learn the finer points of MyBrute. Beyond Newbie This is only a guide for new players, so it does not cover all of the various details of the game. Not all details can be listed here because there are literally tens of thousands of combinations of HP, stats, weapons, specialties, and pets. After making enough characters, viewing other players' replays, engaging in Arena and tournament battles, and gathering pupils you will come to understand the nuances of how your individual Brute and his/her collection of weapons, skills, and pets plays in specific match-ups. As stated above, it's recommended that you avoid battling Brutes who own the wolf pet unless you have Hypnosis, Cry of the Damned, or Net supers, but what if your Brute has a reliable counter-attack weapon and the Untouchable specialty? If you have either the Armour or Extra-thick Skin specialities (both reduce damage) and a lot of HP, then are multiple dogs still so dangerous? What if the enemy has one really strong weapon, and several not-so-strong weapons, what are the chances of that Brute using the decisive item? You must consider your character's particular strengths and weaknesses and their overall effectiveness, and gamble on a tough battle every once in a while to gain knowledge of the game. Good luck to you! Category:fight my brute and see what MyBrute is like!